Thursday, July 31, 2008

Le Petit Garçon Avec une Baguette

As I walked through Vieux Lyon on my last day in Lyon, I saw ce petit garçon avec une baguette (little boy with a baguette). His
mother was sitting in the cafe just behind the planters. She kept an eye on him while chatting with a friend. Periodically she tried to bring him over closer next to her. These attempts at maternal bonding resulted in immediate loud violent tantrums. To avoid a scene, she settled for letting him sit on the edge of the street next to the cafe. While his mother was watching him, I don't think she was aware of the toppings he chose for his baguette.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Lyon Bleu International



While I have taken hundreds of pictures of France, my primary purpose for going to Lyon was to study French à l'école dans la ville de Lyon . This is a picture that I took of my classmates and professor on the last day of class. Our professor, Angela Morales, is the woman fifth from the left. Our class was multi-national. Each student in this picture came from a different country.

This is another picture of Angela that I took when I met her in Vieux Lyon on a Saturday afternoon.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Savvy Shopper in Lyon

This young man is looking for something sportier than a Smart Car to commute à son école maternelle (nursery school) !

SUV Life Raft


This is a new Smart Car that is manufactured in the Lorraine, France. Mecedes-Benz has made a million of them over the last ten years. Last January they went on sale in the US, and I've seen them popping up in Chicago. They are very popular in France where gas costs about $10 per gallon.
A Smart Car could be the perfect second car for owners of big
SUV gaz-guzzlers. SUV owners could fit a Smart Car in the cargo area of their car. When their SUV runs out of gas, the Smart Car could be used like a life raft. This could run for a week on the amount of gas that the gas-guzzler would use to go to the grocery store !

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Jumping Jack



This little girl stole the show. Behind her is a group of technicolor street musicians The people in the cafe ignored them to watch this energetic little girl on a pogo stick.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Vintage Singer

This man was sitting at a cafe in Vieux Lyon on Sunday afternoon. He was singing old Bob Dylan tunes from the sixties (en anglais). Unlike the street performers, he wasn't singing for his supper. He just performed for his enjoyment and that of the numerous spectators. People crowded around this small cafe to hear him sing. everyone in the cafe and on the street. gave him enthusiastic applause. If he had put his hat out, he would have collected enough for more than just his supper.

C'est Maintenat ou Jamais


Vieux Lyon is filled with people on the weekends. I heard a group of teen age street musicians singing Elvis Presley songs in French in front of the original l'hôtel de ville (city hall) of Lyon. You have lived until you have heard "C'est maintenant ou jamais" (It's now or never) sung by a group of energetic French teens. Their version sounded more like a disco tune that the original one by Elvis.The groups enthusiasm made up for its lack of authenticity.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Le Fourvière

Le Fourvière is the 400 foot hill that overlooks Lyon. You can see the magnificent Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière at the top of this hills from anywhere in Lyon. Its white facade glistens during the day and is lit at night. The picture below was taken in La Place Bellcour in the Centre Ville de Lyon. You can just see the red roof tops of the buidings in Vieux Lyon. To the right of the basilica is La tour métallique de Fourvière. Modelled after the third stage of La tour Eiffel in Paris, it was built it with the support of the city as a republican response to the basilica. For many years it was a sightseeing tower and a restaurant, but was converted to a radio antenna in the 1950s. La tour is the highest structure in Lyon and exceeds the height of the neighboring church. This site has had special significance during Lyon's entire history. The Romans built a forum on this site There were Roman temples here. Other cults established a presence here after the fall of the Roman Empire. The first Christian Church was dedicated to St. Thomas à Beckett. In the seventeenth century, a chapel was built here to give thanks for stopping the spread of the Plague in Lyon. Two hundred years later, the Bishop of Lyon made a vow to the Virgin Mary to erect this church if Lyon was spared from a Prussian invasion. Lyon did escape the Prussian invasion and local citizens built the basilica in gratitude.
The Gauls who first settled in Lyon settled on this hill. Its towering height served as a natural defense against invaders. After several successful invasions, these original Lyonnais moved down to the edge of the river. They decided that the advantages of a quick get away outweighed those of a natural defense.

Originally a Roman forum was located on the site of the present church. This ancient forum that gave its name to the hill. The Romans conquered Lyon under Caesar and built temples and public structures at the top of the hill. Several theaters were constructed atop the hill in the first century BC. Twenty one hundred years later, During the summer, they are still in use. Les Nuits de Fourvière presents an eclectic program of dance and music in the Roman Theater. I have gone to several events there this summer. Construction crews still find Roman artifacts when digging foundations, but the theater is the only large building left from that era.
To reach the top of this hill you can walk up steep roads and even steeper flights of steps from Vieux Lyon. While the walk through the lush greenery of le Jardin de Roseries is more scenic, most people choose to take the Funiculaire rail cars. Riding on these cars feels like you are getting on a Roller Coaster. The trains climb up the hill at about a 45 degree angle. Even the station is at an angle. These pictures show the rail car and the station. If you look closely at the tracks you will see a cable running down the middle. At the other end of this cable is another identical rail car. These two cars are attached to each other and move up and down the hill in sort of a see-saw motion. They balance each other which reduces the power needed to move the cars. You try not to think of what might happen if one car comes loose!

Vieux Lyon

In the fifteenth century, the French kings decided to make Lyon the silk capital of France. Generous financial incentives lured Italian and other European silk makers to Lyon. These efforts were successful and Lyon became the silk capital of Europe by the eighteenth century. As the silk industry expanded Lyon's population grew at an explosive rate. Buildings were crammed against each other in the Vieux Lyon. Cobblestone streets, Renaissance houses, and the colorful building facades give this area a jovial Italian air. This is in contrast to the more dignified and elegant feel of the French buildings from the same era. Most workers were illiterate; even the better educated ones did not all speak French. Small statues on street corners indicated the name of the street. La rue de boeuf (the street of the ox) is a typical street intersection in Vieux Lyon. A statue of an ox indicated the name of this street. The lettered street sign is a modern addition that was added much later. A nearby street is named Rue des Trois Maries and had a statue of the three Marys from the New Testament. Unfortunately many all of these statues have not survived.

Vieux Lyon streetscape

This is a typical streetscape in Vieux Lyon. This area lies in a narrow strip of land between the Saône River and the la colline (hill) de Fourvière. Many of these colorful houses date back to the Renaissance when Lyon was the silk capital of Western Europe. Streets in Vieux Lyon are long, winding and narrow with few cross streets. The streets are connected via "les traboules." These are narrow hidden passages that run through the ground floors of houses in old Lyon.
During World War II, Lyon was a center for the French resistance. The
resistance was able to hid its fighters in were was able to hide in "Les Traboules." During the renaissance era silk workers could move silk from one building to another without exposing it to the weather. There are few cross streets in Vieux Lyon. As Lyon's population increased buildings were built up against existing houses. The Lyonais created les traboules to allow people to cross from one street to the next without having to walk through someone else's apartment. These are narrow hidden passages that run through the ground floors of houses in old Lyon. Traboule is usually translated into English as a passage way. This does not do justice to these often ornate structures that date back to the Renaissance.

Summer Day in Vieux Lyon

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) is the most picturesque section of Lyon. It's located at the base of a large hill along the Soane River. The Gauls first settled on in the first century BC. They were followed by the Romans and eventually the Franks. Lyon gradually spread out from here.
Many buildings in Vieux Lyon date back to the Renaissance. The streets are narrow
cobblestone avenues. In summer, the area is filled with tourists. Saturday, July 12 was one of the hottest days of the summer. These kids found the perfect way to enjoy the day..

Friday, July 4, 2008

Voyage à Lyon

Despite the best efforts of the airline industry to sabotage my trip. I eventually made it to Paris in early July 2008. The plane from Chicago was delayed two hours because of thunderstorms in Chicago. I missed my connecting flight from New York to Paris. American booked me on a different flight to London with a connecting flight to Paris. More bad weather and airline bureaucracy caused me to miss the connecting flight to Paris.
I finally arrived in Paris about ten hours late. I had booked a shuttle to take me from the airport to the hotel. They refused to pick me up, because it was so late (7:30 pm). I took the
RER commuter train into the city and tried unsuccessfully to catch a cab to the hotel. I walked for a mile searching for the hotel. It was located on a street that was so small it did not appear on my map. I found it after a concierge at a nearby hotel gave me directions. Friday, July 4 was a glorious sunny day in Paris. As I walked along the right bank of the Seine, I quickly forgot the ordeals of the previous day. This shot was taken during my walk along the Seine.